Cabeza de Condor, or the “Bolivia Matterhom” as Hans Ertl called it, is one of the most striking mountains in the Cordillera Real seen from base camp, the Southeast Face appears to be almost overhanging while from the pass to the north of Pico Austria the CABEZA is a great rock and ice spike. This peak is generally climbed via the Normal Route or the Directisima, but it has also been climbed from the other sides, which have steep routes. In this region there are different peaks from 5.150m. to 5.700m. of altitude such as: Austria, Ilusion, Mirador, Alpamayo Chico and Cabeza Condor.
The Condoriri base camp is also the beginning for the Chacapampa Trek.
Day 01: LA PAZ – TUNI – CHIARKHOTA From the city of La Paz (2 hrs.) we will go to the lagoon TUNI by private transportation. From Llama square we will walk for 3 hrs. to the lagoon Chiarkhota (4.650 m. above sea level), located in the base of the solid CONDORIRI MASSIF We will camp near the lagoon.
Day 02: ACCLIMATIZATION DAY This day we can climb the peak Mirador /5.100m.) or Austria (5.200m.) it can decide in the base camp, night camping.
Day 03: CLIMB TO ILUSION Ascent to the Ilusion (5.250m.) peak, hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hrs. From here it is about 3 hours climbing to the summit of Ilusion, descend for about 2 hrs. return to the base camp, night camping.
Day 04: CLIMB TO THE ALPAMAYO CHICO Hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hrs. from here we will have the climbing equipment, we arrive to the base of the snowy pyramid, and then we will have a technical climb during the first 80 m. (55 grades). After passing this technical side, we will ascend up to the summit of ALPAMAYO CHICO (5.400m. over the sea level) in 3.30hrs. We will have some minutes over the summit to admire the mountainous landscape that surrounds us. Descend for 4.hrs. Return to the base camp, night camping.
Day 05: CLIMB TO CONDORIRI Hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hrs. from here we will have the climbing equipment, climbing for about 6 hours to reach the summit at 5.700 m.a.s.l. by the normal way and descend for 3 hours to the base camp, night camping.
Day 06: RETURN TO THE CITY OF LA PAZ Descent for about 2 hrs. to the lagoons TUNI with llamas assistance for the heavy bags From here, we will return to the city of La Paz by private transportation (2 hrs.)
The difficulty level of Condoriri (5.648 m.a.s.l), in technical words is not difficult, but it requires a good acclimatizing and good shape.
An IUAGM international mountain guide who also belongs to the High Mountain Guides Association of Bolivia. AGMT. Assistant guides are instructed by ENSA France School – Chamonix.
We count with experienced porters who carry the collective heavy equipment, food, tents, from de base to the high camp.
The mountaineers should carry their personal equipment.
We have tents an igloo style for two person (European fashion for high mountain tent, mattress).North face and Mountain Hardware tents.
The high mountain security gear is included (rope, stakes, ice screws, etc.).
TECHNICS OF ASCENT
By the normal route is the following.: The difference of level is: 838 m. Technical difficulty: Half easy Inclination: 40 to 50 grades.
Our experienced cook provides three meals a day during the expedition. We have two kind of food vegetarian and no vegetarian. Dried fruit or energetic bars are recommended.